You know when you say to a friend, “I’ll pop over and we’ll grab a bite together”?
Granted, not everyone can boast friends who are skilled in the kitchen, but here you find the right atmosphere, simple food, and just enough intimacy. Precisely what has been lost in so many places pushing formats where everything is overly gourmet, overpriced, excessively seasoned, or plain clinical.
Vico Latilla is tucked away right behind Piazza Dante in Naples.
It used to be a dark alleyway, busy only with cars, scooters, and vans. Four years ago, it came alive with the arrival of Zazzu and another wine bar right next door.
The indoor space is tiny, but outside it's a jigsaw of tables and stools scattered here and there. Valeria is the owner, and she’s the one holding court in the kitchen. You can always spot her on the go in the open kitchen, busy plating up, but also grabbing a beer or a quick cigarette break between shifts, chatting away with regulars and passing travellers. I love what I spot while nosying around: photos in the loo, books on Neapolitan cuisine, a local community noticeboard for swapping ads, a couple of armchairs poached from a living room, and mismatched crockery that certainly didn't come off an IKEA shelf.
Valeria is self-taught. She lived abroad for many years, speaks English, German, and perhaps a bit of Spanish. Her former home restaurant was a real gem: she would invite tourists to shop for ingredients at the Pignasecca market, then cook and feast together. Her sausage and friarielli (wild Neapolitan broccoli) meatballs are famous, strictly baked in the oven (if they are in season, don't miss them), because at Zazzu, nothing is fried!
Her CV lists researcher, nutritionist, biologist and -I would add -unquestionably the heart and soul of this bistro. Without her, it would just be one of many. If you ask her why your food hasn't arrived yet, she’ll remind you that you’re not at McDonald’s and everything is made to order. If you’re sitting around waiting for table service, remember it’s self-service here. Even if they hand a plate over to you when it's quiet, keep an ear out for your name being called. And please, don't hog a table for hours if you’ve only ordered a single beer!
At Zazzu - pronounced without that annoying stress on the u - don't expect theatrical effects or heavy traditional Neapolitan dishes. The menu changes weekly, and every dish strikes a brilliant balance of macronutrients. In fact, you could happily eat here three days in a row without a shred of guilt.
You notice the difference right from the nibbles: instead of standard peanuts and crisps, you get lupin beans, almonds, toasted corn, or popcorn. Some of the beers are local craft brews from Campania, the wines are carefully curated, and even the Spritz is a twist on the classic. It's called ASpritz, made with a house-blend bitter crafted by Ceraldi Caffè at Pignasecca.
All in all, a genuine spot filled with warmth and heart-just like the best evenings spent with friends.
Zazzu Bistrot
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