From neighborhood markets to traditional delicatessens that reward quality in a mini format: in Naples, food shopping is a ritual tied to local artisans fighting, as best they can, against supermarket chains.
There is the salumeria that prepares mouth-watering panini and holds the wrapping paper together with two elastic bands; the one where they calculate your bill on a notepad or write down “sospeso” because you’ll pass by to pay later; the one that fills the “panaro” (basket) that you’ll lower down from a building in the Quartieri (Spagnoli); and then that counter-hand who exclaims “buongiorno dottò” (good morning doctor) the moment he sees you.
While some people are delighted to be called "dottore" when ordering 200 grams of parma ham and a provola cheese, I always take this title of reverence with a pinch of salt. I don’t know how to explain it, but it’s like saying "you are not one of us, you belong to another category."
One evening, I was having dinner at Borgo Marinari with a friend who is a doctor. The waiter arrives at the table and asks, “Dottoressa, what can I bring you?”. She looks at me with wide eyes, exclaiming, "how does he know I’m a doctor?" I remember laughing so much, and I still do now when I think about it.
But let’s get back to our food shopping.
For the past few days, I’ve kept my computer open, jotting down my favourite spots from time to time.
Here you’ll find my list.
Over time, I will share not only essential everyday groceries but also delicious secrets and places to return to when you want to treat yourself to something extra.
I must warn you, I am a foodie and an omnivore; I prefer authentic places and people, I always read labels, I support small producers, and I am against any form of intensive farming—yet I still often wander down supermarket aisles. I love vegetables and enjoy experimenting, which is why I hope to soon share a list of places that can satisfy the appetites of vegetarians, coeliacs, and those with intolerances.
Grab a pen and paper, or update the notes on your mobile phone, let's go food shopping.
The Mussillo of baccalà from Euro Fish
‘O baccalà, vuagliù, meglio d’o pesce! (Baccalà, guys, is better than fish) I completely agree!
Lately, I’ve developed a real passion for mussillo, the most noble and prized cut of baccalà (salted cod).
In Campania - just like in Portugal - there are places of worship that celebrate it in every possible way, often featuring it as the sole ingredient on the menu.
If you search online, you’ll find many variations on the theme; perhaps you might like it tossed in tomato sauce or seasoned with capers and olives. Personally, I prefer it as a salad or fried, but only at a restaurant, because I never fry anything at home.
I don’t know if Euro Fish is officially approved by the “categoria” (the purists of the trade), but I’ve always had a great experience there.
This little spot is tucked away in the chaotic Pignasecca market: you can ask for different cuts and get advice on how to desalinate it. Mind you, always specify when you plan to cook it, and don't delay your visit if you want to find it still on display.
A pit stop at Panificio Coppola in the Pignasecca
- What to buy: Pane cafone, panini napoletani, taralli, freselle
- The hidden gem: The “Via col vento” pastries (on Thursdays)
- Area: Mercato della Pignasecca
Our tour continues in the Pignasecca at Panificio Coppola, a local institution.
You have no idea how confused I feel when I’m in a new place and have to order bread: every single one has different shapes and names. Some are actually quite funny.
If you are in Naples, walk into Coppola and ask for “pane cafone”. It has a thick, crunchy crust and a soft crumb, making it absolutely perfect for doing the “scarpetta” (mopping up the sauce left on your plate).
In the window, you will surely spot panini napoletani (stuffed generously with cheeses and cured meats), taralli made with lard and pepper, and freselle (or friselle)—a twice-baked bread that you quickly rinse under running water before dressing it with cherry tomatoes, garlic, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.
I must confess that when I leave this place, even if the bread isn’t warm, I always reach my hand into the paper bag to tear off the first piece to tuck into.
One day a week, if I remember correctly it's Thursdays, they bake “Via col vento”—a sweet treat made of choux pastry topped with sugar sprinkles. You can also find them at Pasticceria Colmayer where they were originally created (though that’s quite far from here if you’re thinking of heading there straight away).
Molettieri and the pizza di scarole
Continuing towards Piazza Plebiscito, just a short distance from the tourist hustle and bustle, is one of Molettieri's two shops (the bakery and shop are also on Via Vittorio Emanuele).
I come here specifically for the pizza di scarole (I always pre-order it), which they prepare in such a tasty way, just like my mum would make it.
Simplicity is exactly what I need for this break: I buy some seed crackers and take a look at the small deli counter for a quick, very informal bite. It’s a great alternative to a restaurant, a standard pizza, or for anyone who doesn’t fancy cooking.
I can totally understand the regulars who parade back and forth while asking, “what am I eating today?”.
Feeling like a child again with the pizzette “di Moccia”
If we’re talking about guilty pleasures, at this point I simply must mention the “pizzette di Moccia”. Many people know them by this name, even though the café is now called Romano Caffè.
I don’t know what connection there is, if any, with the namesakes you find around Naples; I always come to get them here in Via Carducci.
For many Neapolitans, the pizzette di Moccia taste just like childhood.
To be clear, we aren’t talking about classic Neapolitan pizza, but you can order these little pizzas during an aperitivo while you stroll among the boutiques in this elegant area of Naples.
Any occasion is a good one. Needless to say, one leads to another, so we’d better pace ourselves.
Fruit and vegetables at the markets
- What to buy: Zero-km fruit and veg from local producers (mele annurche, peas, pomodori cuore di bue)
- Area: Centre (Near Piazza Municipio)
And to balance out our diet, the time has come to think about getting some fruit and veg.
Aside from a few neighborhood greengrocers or the incredibly well-stocked aisles of the Sole365 supermarket (which I’ll tell you about later), lately I’ve been frequenting the weekly Campagna Amica and Coldiretti market, located not far from Piazza Municipio.
How lovely it is to put a face to the people who actually grow the fruit and vegetables I eat!
In general, I try not to buy avocados from Peru or grapes from Spain, because right here at zero-km, I can find something delicious connected to small local businesses.
Mele annurche (apple variety), pomodori cuore di bue (beefsteak tomatoes) or “piennolo” tomatoes (which I personally don't like, to be honest), peas to shell, swiss chard, salad leaves, you are spoilt for choice.
Usually, after you’ve paid, someone will ask you, “odori?” (herbs/scents). It’s a lovely way of gifting your purchase with a bit of celery, basil, and parsley. A gesture that is highly appreciated nowadays, especially by those who live in other cities where you have to pay for herbs—and pay dearly, indeed!
Meat and the traditional Neapolitan gastronomy
In Campania, as we said, we consume a lot of vegetables, but it is equally true that genovese, ragù, sausage, and friarielli monopolise plenty of conversations, especially when the weekend is just around the corner.
You can tell by the aroma that forcefully bursts into apartment buildings or out of open windows, because these are recipes that require a long, slow cook, and I assure you it never goes unnoticed.
Here, I'll point out a few butcher shops that I prefer over the standard supermarket counters.
Chicken in all shapes and sizes from Balsamo
In Via Cavallerizza, you’ll find the historic Polleria Balsamo.
You can ask for chicken in various cuts, but also chicken meatballs with basil or lemon, and chicken croquettes with paprika, which I bake in the oven and remain my absolute favourites.
Everything is prepared and seasoned in an artisanal way, and the gentleman behind the counter is always incredibly kind.
If you’ve forgotten the side dish and you’re in a rush, you can find - depending on availability - scarola, friarielli, or melanzane a funghetto (aubergines) to accompany your main course.
Macelleria Fratelli de Luca and its polpettine
But our tour doesn't end here.
Continuing along Via Cavallerizza, we step into the Macelleria dei Fratelli De Luca, another true jewelry shop of meat.
It’s unbelievable, on this single street, you can count at least four butchers which, unlike fashion brands that open and close cyclically, have been here forever.
The Macelleria De Luca immediately inspires a sense of cleanliness, great choice, and a warm welcome. Let me know if it feels the same for you.
I am not a creature of habit, but here I always ask for the polpettine (little meatballs).
You have to queue for meat at Tortora, too
If you are coming from the Quartieri Spagnoli, your pit stop is Da Tortora. Here I feel like I'm at the Post Office; as soon as I arrive, I take my number straight away. Be prepared for a bit of a queue, especially if you choose peak days and hours.
Kindness, cleanliness, and a recipe always ready to be shared are a constant here as well.
In Naples, recipes are freely dispensed. Everyone is ready to tell you theirs -so prepare your pen and paper - or to share your own.
Remember, there are no absolute truths.
The ricotta in salvietta from Mini Caseificio Costanzo
- What to buy: Ricotta in salvietta (lactose-free available), Malafronte corn grissini
- Area: Fuorigrotta and Vomero
In the collective imagination, Campania is always associated with mozzarella or dairy products.
The ricotta in salvietta from Mini Caseificio Costanzo, for example, must be tried, and not just because it received recognition from the Gambero Rosso.
If you are lactose intolerant, I can confirm that the lactose-free version has the exact same unmistakable flavour. The last time I bought it, a friend and I ate it right on the bench opposite the shop, pairing it with corn grissini (breadsticks) by Malafronte. You can find these at Costanzo too, as they keep a small selection of other tasty products.
For those who can wait, I highly recommend going home and warming up a slice of pane cafone, before spreading it with ricotta in salvietta, Cantabrian anchovies, and lemon zest.
You'll have to tell me what you think.
Sogni di latte: a paradise for dairy lovers
Another paradise if you love dairy products is Sogni di latte. You can find it in Via Cavallerizza or in Vomero, and they are open almost 365 days a year.
Inside, you'll find a meticulously curated selection of dairy products, not just Italian, and a knowledgeable staff who can guide you to discover new flavours.
The Barlotti mozzarella (order it in advance if you want to take it away), yoghurts from small producers, Malafronte grissini, flavourful bread, jams, and sparkling wines are perfect for your shopping list, an aperitivo, or a last-minute gift.
For serial shoppers, I highly recommend getting their loyalty card to earn rewards over time.
The mozzarella from Latteria Fierro
How do you like your mozzarella?
There are two main schools of thought when it comes to mozzarella: there is the Caserta style and the Cilento style.
A tasting always helps to clear your mind, but essentially, the former has a much stronger and saltier flavour than the latter. To serve it, you just need to place it in a bagnomaria (water bath) in warm water for a few minutes before serving. But not everyone follows this “procedure”.
Earlier I mentioned the Barlotti mozzarella which you can find at Sogni di Latte or at their beautiful estate in Paestum, which I highly recommend visiting. A Latteria right in the centre, in Mergellina, which is a benchmark for many Neapolitans, is Latteria Fierro. Here you can choose bocconcini, trecce, and everything your heart desires.
Power to the gastronomie
As passionate as I am about food and traditions, I notice that nobody spends time in the kitchen anymore.
That is why mini-markets and gastronomie - even the ones inside supermarkets - represent safe havens that save meals for many people.
I will return to this topic soon.
The focaccia di Amelia at Salumeria Malinconico
In the meantime, what shall we pair with our mozzarella? I suggest Amelia's focaccia!
For me, it was a discovery long before the “fenomeno Malinconico” (the Malinconico phenomenon) exploded.
This salumeria has a fresh and modern way of communicating (follow them on Instagram), even though the business boasts nearly 100 years of history.
The top spot goes to Amelia's focaccia, and that is not up for debate, but you will find plenty of temptations at the deli counter and among the prepared food. It is hard to explain just how simple, tasty, and crispy it is. Did she perhaps use strutto (animal lard) instead of olive oil to make it this way? One day I’ll ask.
Here you’ll find delicious combinations, you are truly spoilt for choice: from the cicoli and ricotta panino to the Parma ham and fig one. Malinconico is a certainty for catering and events, but first and foremost for your grocery shopping at their shop on Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Sole365, the neighborhood supermarket
Delicatessens, markets, and mini-markets are fantastic, but often you simply need them to be open after 20:00 because, let’s face it, our lives are frantic. The absolute certainty at that hour is walking into Sole365. This supermarket has been awarded multiple times for the best fruit and vegetable department in Italy and is known for its protected, low prices 365 days a year.
On Via dell’Incoronata, not far from Piazza Municipio, you always find a large crowd, but the queue moves quickly.
There is the bread counter (you can even find Rescigno bread), the fishmonger, the butcher, and even a deli counter, making it perfect not just for food shopping, but also for an affordable food break while you're moving around the city.
Now for the desserts
Let’s move on to the sweetest part of my recommendations, because “paste” (Sunday pastries) cannot be missing from Neapolitan tables, especially on Sundays.
Sfogliatelle, ricce or frolle, Sciù with coffee or chocolate, and babà, once upon a time, these desserts were so large that eating one all by yourself was almost impossible. Today, there are many variations on the theme, from the most traditional to more innovative versions.
I promised myself not to mention festive sweets like mustaccioli and cassatine. Let's start with the great classics.
The unforgettable Babà from Mary
Mary's babà is on the podium of babà in Naples for me. You can find it in the Galleria Umberto I in a shop that is so tiny it doesn't even have room for a display window; in fact, everything here is strictly take-away.
The syrup soak is beautifully balanced, not too sweet and without too much alcohol.
Time and time again, I always choose the plain one, leaving aside cream, wild strawberries, or Nutella.
Take advantage of it as soon as it opens or during moments when you don’t find a queue.
The babà alla pastiera from Capriccio
Let’s move over to Porta Capuana to Il Capriccio for the babà alla pastiera.
At first, I was sceptical; I couldn't quite grasp the combination of the two desserts, and yet yes, the babà alla pastiera combines the leavened, soaked dough of the babà with the filling of a pastiera. It is served as a slice, and I’d say it satisfies every sweet tooth.
Aside from the babà alla pastiera, the classic one is also fantastic for the purists, and it is served on trays even in XXL formats.
You can choose whether you prefer a single portion or a slice.
Gay Odin: ghiande, foresta and nudi await you
- What to buy: Ghiande, wafers, cioccolato Foresta, liqueur-filled nudi
- Area: Chiaia (Via Chiaia / Via Vetriera)
Napoli really ought to end up in Dante's circle of the gluttonous. The temptations don't end here!
Gay Odin is another symbol of the city, even though this business was born in 1888 from a Piedmontese man, Isidoro Odin, who moved here in search of fortune.
It has several shops in Naples, as well as in Rome and Milan, but there are three I suggest in the city. Let’s start with Via Chiaia.
It will be impossible not to notice the wooden Art Nouveau entrance as you walk past; then we move onto the historic Fabbrica (Factory), right behind the Teatro Le Palme, where both production and sales continue; and finally to Chocolate Foresta, which is the only one that has little tables both inside and outside where you can enjoy your treats.
Ghiande and wafers (be careful to keep them in an airtight container or eat them quickly to stop them losing their crispness), cioccolato Foresta, and the liqueur-filled nudi.
Mennella and the Sciù alla nocciola
Another superb sweet is the Sciù (or choux) alla nocciola. I discovered it via word-of-mouth, so now it's my turn to pass it on.
Many people praise the lemon frolle, but if I have to choose, for me, the Sciù always wins hands down, and you can only find it at Pasticceria Mennella in Via Giosuè Carducci.
The choux pastry on the outside is filled with a rich hazelnut cream and decorated with a cascade of toasted hazelnuts on top; it's a simple dessert, but success is guaranteed.
I highly recommend ordering one and having a coffee while you wait to pick it up.
Enoteca Partenopea and musical guitars
- What to buy: Fine wines, spirits, and... classical and acoustic guitars
- Area: Fuorigrotta
I know there are other wine shops right in the centre, but this is the one I always return to whenever I need to gift a bottle or ask for advice.
Enoteca Partenopea is located in Fuorigrotta, and I prefer it because of the polite staff and the beautifully arranged displays. Furthermore, it hides a detail you just don't expect: alongside a vast selection of fine wines and spirits, they also sell high-end classical and acoustic guitars.
