Breezy, intimate, relaxing, who would have thought August could surprise me like this.
After stopping in Noto, Modica and Ragusa Ibla, I found myself compulsively scrolling through Booking.com looking for a place to stay for the night. The exhaustion of the motorbike trip was a constant reminder that anywhere would do; the journey was definitely catching up with me.
The night before had been spent in a very basic B&B, booked at a rock-bottom rate. The two owners, as elderly as they were affectionate, sweetened a very brief stay that hadn't exactly lived up to my expectations.
I was an hour and a half away from Sciacca. Compared to the late Baroque area, this part of Sicily isn’t a non-stop "wow" experience, but it holds new stories instead, like its precious corals or the timeless enchantment of the Temples of Selinunte.
Far from the tourist crowds and postcard clichés, my one-night booking at Maragani Beach stretched into more than a week. This was all thanks to the instant connection with the owners, Elena and Giuseppe, and a private path down to the sea that truly deserves to be shared.
Why I would go back to Maragani Beach in Sciacca
This family-run Baglio (bagghiu in Sicilian dialect) is open from June to September.
If you don’t want to start off on the wrong foot, make sure you don’t confuse Maragani Beach with Maragani Garden when you arrive. They are two adjacent properties under completely different management. Don’t laugh, but I noticed it instantly just by looking at the downpipes: terracotta on one side, plastic on the other.
What was once a fortified farmhouse now houses a few simple, well-kept rooms, a courtyard, and a sea-view garden that is perfect for relaxing.
Wake up, breakfast, beach, snacks, afternoon nap, dinner out: if you feel like it, you can repeat this sequence indefinitely, perhaps adding a wine tasting at a nearby cellar or a sunset show at the Temples of Selinunte.
The owners of Maragani Beach are locals who spend their summers here by the sea, welcoming friends and travellers. It must be quite a unique experience, blending the intimacy of family life with a job where a revolving door of different tourists arrives every day.
If you aren't looking for a pool to lounge in all day or a grand hotel, this unpretentious, just-right destination might be your personal slice of peace.
Perfection belongs on Instagram; in everyday life, we are all beautifully flawed. I remind myself of this every time I read Google reviews for places I particularly loved.
Too often I’ve seen five-star destinations that barely scraped a pass mark for me, or others racking up millions of comments simply because they went viral on social media. Frequently, even luxury spots don’t deliver—and that stings even more when services are lacking and you actually have to pay your own way because your stay isn’t an #adv or an #invitedby.
Relaxation, privacy and authenticity a 7-minute walk from the sea
When I think of Maragani Beach, I immediately picture the long weekends I’d love to organise with friends or family. Considering they don’t have that many beds, it could be the perfect exclusive getaway.
It’s true there are no kitchenettes and you can’t cook your own meals, but you can order lunchtime snacks. The rooms are spacious (book mine, with the mezzanine and courtyard view, or the sea-view one in the main building - there are stairs!), the rates are fair, parking is easy, and eating out in this corner of Sicily is remarkably affordable.
In the morning, breakfast is served in the garden. In the kitchen, you’ll find a small corner stocked with yoghurt, fruit, biscuits, and pastries selected from local bakeries.
And then, it’s off to the beach!
No need to take the car or hunt for a parking spot. Just slip on your swimwear and walk for seven minutes down the private, winding dirt track that leads straight to the shore. Waiting for you there, you'll find umbrellas and deckchairs.
The beach is a narrow strip of sand, embraced by reeds and wild nature. With a bit of luck, depending on the year, you might find the clay seabed and gather natural mud for a DIY rejuvenating face mask. The water is shallow; in fact, in some spots, you can wade out for quite a distance before you can actually swim.
Clicking with the owners, Elena and Giuseppe, made all the difference for me. You can chat about anything and feel genuinely at home, rather than just being associated with a room number.
I can see why some guests I met during my stay have been returning to Maragani Beach for 15 years, now like old friends. They are the ones who arrive bearing gifts of sparkling wine or pastries, which are lovingly shared with the other guests of the Baglio.
I don't know if I could choose the same destination for that long, but I know one thing for certain: if you find what you’re looking for here, why change?
What to do nearby: my personal recommendations
Maragani Beach is also an excellent base for your adventures. I would just urge you to be careful on the roads - especially at night and if you are on a motorbike - as there is no street lighting, and you often alternate between main highways and tiny, unlit country lanes.
Shall we go?
Sciacca
Not far from the Baglio,I discovered Aromatiche Clagia, a nursery specialising in aromatic herbs. Who says you have to bring back fridge magnets as souvenirs? Lemon thyme or liquorice basil, you are spoilt for choice. Ask for advice on what to buy and, if you have time, take a look at the sensory olfactory tours they offer (I didn't manage to do it myself).
Moving on to the centre of Sciacca, we went in search of its world-famous coral. Its unmistakable colour is as intense as a sunset—a mix of salmon pink and deep orange, punctuated by tiny black spots caused by heat emissions from underwater volcanoes.
Nature here has never been entirely tame. Back in 1831, a famous underwater eruption was documented, which led to the emergence of an island, Ferdinandea Island, which vanished shortly afterwards, eroded by the waves of the Strait of Sicily.
Needless to say, between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, there was a literal underwater gold rush. The discovery of the coral banks attracted thousands of fishermen here, leading to intensive fishing. Many coral fishing boats even set sail from Torre del Greco (Campania) and other ports.
Although a local consortium exists today, I’ve never looked into how the supply chain and protection work for those who still produce handcrafted coral pieces. So, I left empty-handed, after spending time admiring the skill of these artisans in the town centre and in a few jewellery shops.
Much like a night in the desert, now that the sun has set, you’ll see Sciacca’s main street come alive with market stalls, fairground rides, and people strolling up and down endlessly. As you walk, you won't miss the crochet creations by the Sciacca Experience Association, which decorate various corners of the town in an unusual way with vibrant colours.
My stop in Sciacca ends here. Soon, I hope to tell you about the thermal baths too. At the moment, they have been closed for over 15 years. After many ups and downs and missed opportunities, it seems management has finally passed to Terme Italia. Let’s hope so, because it could truly enrich a stay here, bringing the history of these places back to life.
Before moving on, as always, I recommend checking Facebook, Instagram, or local newspapers for any ongoing food festivals (sagre). In February, for instance, I’m told the Carnival is not to be missed.
Selinunte and sunset performances
Here we are, finally, I can tell you about one of my absolute favourite stops: the Doric temples of Selinunte.
Imagine experiencing an unforgettable eveningin one of the largest archaeological areas in Europe, and I don't mean through standard private tours or audio guides.
At dusk, from July to September, this breathtaking setting comes alive with countless events (talks, dance, theatre). I remember paying just 15 euros to watch the monologue "Il sogno di Beatrice" (Beatrice's Dream), where a brilliant Beatrice Tascy portrayed the Princess of Lampedusa.
Applause, and more applause!
Menfi and the wineries
If you aren't looking to buy anything, and neither art nor culture satisfies your curiosity, how about a wine tasting?
The province of Agrigento boasts so many wineries that it has come to be known as "Menfishire".
Planeta needs no introduction, but you can also seek out smaller estates, like Mandrarossa, to book tastings, tours, and aperitifs featuring local produce.
Travelling is, after all, a continuous learning experience. Here,I discovered Inzolia, a grape variety whose vines grow right along the coastline, reaching the beach. Imagine the mineral explosion of a grape with such a unique story.
Now it’s time to move on again. If you want to venture further, you have two choices: head towards the salt pans of Trapani and the small hilltop village of Erice, or continue towards Modica and Ragusa Ibla, depending on your plans and available time.
As for me, I’ll be cutting through the heart of Sicily to stop at Burri’s Cretto, before heading back to Palermo.
Safe travels!
